10 Cups of Çay and a book…..or two

My computer has been on a bit of fritz lately. At first I was frustrated, no uploading my pictures, following the news, email, the usual stuff. But it has allowed me to spend more and more time doing the activity that I have enjoyed for as long as I can remember. Reading.

Over the past 5 days I have finished two top notch books. The Bastard of Istanbul by Elif Shafak and Where Men Win Glory by Jon Krakauer. Shafak’s book is about two families that are intertwined in countless ways, one a Turk family in Istanbul and the other an Armenian family in San Francisco. The story follows as the two children of the families connect and uncover their pasts and the connections that they have. This takes place in Istanbul and the writing on the city, it speaks to me like nothing so far has. It has made me realize just how much of this city I know. I probably will quote it from time to time throughout the rest of the months on my blog.

The second book was one that was sent by my mother in my Christmas package. Every year for Christmas there is always a book or two given to me that is either a hit or miss, and this year I can say after finishing one and having started the second (The Magicians by Lev Grossman) it is a sure hit. The book follows the tale of Pat Tillman, the NFL player who turned down a multi million dollar contract to enlist in the Army following 9/11. This book has so much to it that I cannot begin to summarize it. But one of the things I took away was the determination and the thrill of a challenge no matter how big or small.

These two books, followed by a remedial 3 ½ hours of Lord of the Rings: Fellowship of the Rings Extended Edition and one quote have given me a bit of a boost to get through the some what homesick, disparaging feelings I’ve been having over the past few weeks. “All we have to decide, is what to do with the time that is given to us” the words of Ian Mckellen playing Gandalf basically sum up it all. And the past few days, I can sure say I’ve stepped up my game a little bit. No more so then this past Saturday. The day I’m now referring to as The Day of Ten Teas.

Starting out early Saturday morning I had no plans, no companions, no engagements. I was as free as I possibly could be, so what the heck was I gonna do. I woke early made myself a cup of çay (1) with a simit and walked out the door by 7:30. Went to my favorite place in the city, the ferry (vapur) and crossed the Bosphorous. I was the only one I guess crazy enough to sit outside on the deck so when the guy came around to ask if anyone wanted tea, coffee or salep he sat and talked to me for a bit, I liked the conversation so I got another cup of çay (2). I arrived on the Europe side and walked through the spice bazaar, the smells of all the piles of spices makes it always a treat to see. I continued through and exited out the back and explored my way up the hill hoping to eventually run into the grand bazaar. As it was still early I watched shops open and vendors start their carts to various corners of the city.

I reached the grand bazaar and was not surprised to find myself as one of the only potential customers walking the halls. It didn’t help that I had my backpack on and that my camera was around my neck. And to the men in the bazaar that says “TOURIST” all over it. I have a feeling it is one of the places in the world where the vendors know almost all major languages and can change from one to another with every passing customer. The calls of “look at this” “very nice” and “where are you from” seemed endless.

Fortunately for me I was only answering in Turkish. Nice to see the look of surprise on their faces. While I was mainly ignoring their calls to look at their wares I was finally suckered by walking down a part of the bazaar that hadn’t really opened yet. A man came up and said “I have a question” at once I recognized a shtick to sell me something and kept walking. He said “can I not even finish my question” and in such a voice that I had to stop and answer. He asked me a question about how to say something in English and I answered and he said, thank you would you like some tea? No way I’m turning down free tea. So I sat and had a cup (3) and talked to him about all sorts of things. I got to really experience the bazaar as I watched him bargain with two customers on pipes and watch the other stalls around. When I was done I was feeling pretty good, new friend, used Turkish, tea. The remainder of my walk through the bazaar I talked to many of the vendors and another I was invited in for some tea (4), although this time it was to try and sell me something.

I exited the bazaar and made my way down some streets on the other side of the hill hoping to reach the Marmara Sea and find a place for lunch. Unfortunately when I found the sea, there were only docks and a highway. I walked back up the hill and had lunch (kaşarlı pide a favorite) and another cup of tea (5). I walked some more, visited some mosques and made my way over the Galata bridge, past those fisherman who are always there but seem to never get anything. Up the hill past Galata tower and to the end of Istiklal. I stopped at a small café and finally decided to see what my friends were up to. I made plans to go over to Logan’s house, and then learned Lauren was on her way to Taksim so I’d wait around and finish another cup of tea or two. (6,7) When Lauren got there she was freezing (silly Texans and not knowing what cold weather is) and so we found another small café and ordered, you guessed it tea. (8) We then were called by Laura to come meet her new host sister (she had moved families the weekend before) so we traveled to Osmanbey and failed to find a taksi. We then moved on to Levent where I would catch a dolmus to Logan’s house in Zekeriakoy and Lauren would meet her host mom. I decided to wait with Lauren and we got çay (9) and dessert at Mado. I finally got on the dolmus and took it to Sariyer. It was such a nice night that I stopped at a small restaurant on the Bosphorous in Sariyer for one more cup of çay (10). And that, is the day of 10 cups of tea.

As always would love any comments or emails.